Friday, September 14, 2007

by Epicurious


OHGANE KOREAN RESTAURANT, North Oakland


While not in the most desirable of neighborhoods – Ohgane is located on the stretch of Oakland’s Broadway Boulevard between 40th and 41st, off the 580 freeway – it makes up for lack of geographical charm with plenty of easy parking, lot and street. Those cruising in sweeter rides than our own need not worry while chowing down, for a trusty security guard, armed with a Bluetooth earpiece, keeps watch in the lot in the evenings. On the outside, Ohgane resembles a Koreanized IHOP, but the roomy interior makes for an ideal tabletop grilling space. The back room seems to be reserved for Korean speakers, so naturally we were seated in the front. Murals of the Korean countryside cover the walls, which surround abundant tables fitted with grills and overhead ventilation fans. Our only gripe: that there was only one grill for our table of eight, and it was located at the far end of the tabletop, rendering one of our party head chef and the remainder of us hungry and demanding baby birds.

The menus are beautifully bound in silver albums covered with rose brocade (seriously), Ohgane’s menu covers all areas of Korean food goodness. While you can choose from appetizers, entrees and meats for grilling, most go mainly for the meat. There is a lunch menu, which we’ve heard gives a bigger bang for your buck, but for our soiree we stuck mainly with meat and more meat. We did try two appetizers, vegetables pancakes and chap chae (stir-fired glass noodles with beef and veggies), and found them delicious, but the vast array of ban chan, or small complimentary dishes, are usually the perfect accompaniment to the meal. What’s more, you can ask for refills!

When wrestling with sizzling meat, filling beer glasses and making sure everyone gets a taste of a particular yummy side dish, presentation is usually not a concern. Like typical Korean BBQ places, Ohgane serves everything up neatly and efficiently, and as long as the meat kept coming, we didn’t mind that there were no tomato roses atop the piles. Korean BBQ is all about the meat, and we were all about getting it off the grill and into our mouths as quickly as possible. We tried bulgogi (sliced lean beef), spicy pork and chicken, although the menu offered many more selections, including seafood. We also ordered a few entrees - spicy pork and veggies, bi bim bap (rice with meat and veggies cooked in a clay pot and assembled at the table) and soup noodles. Everything was as good as can be, and although a certain someone declared that it wasn’t up to LA standards (but then again, what in Nor Cal IS?), we had to momentarily put conversation and socializing aside to indulge in the Korean BBQ experience.

A good selection of sake and liquors lined the display case by the entrance, but curiously the only Korean beer that Ohgane serves is HITE. Six bottles later, we didn’t really mind. A quick Google search reveals that Hite is not only made with 100% pure rock bed ground water, but is also the first beer to have a thermometer mark on its label, which tells you whether the beer inside is at the optimal temperature or not. As usual, our supper club party was too full to partake in any desserts after our main course. We are trying to work on saving room since we know this is a crucial element to restaurant reviews. We just can't help getting more than our fill of such tasty entrees.

Even though we didn’t have a Korean among us, we got excellent service from the rotating staff, with seemingly five or six different people serving us throughout the evening. It was a little difficult communicating with the waitress who took our order, whose English wasn’t great, but it wasn’t an issue. At $34 per person, Korean BBQ wasn’t the cheapest outing we’ve had, but for an evening filled with good food, good company and thought-provoking conversation it was worth every penny.


Ohgane Korean Restaurant
3915 Broadway Oakland, CA 94620
(510) 594-8300

Wednesday, August 1, 2007

DJ'S BISTRO, Concord


The CSNSC broke all the rules this summer and deliberately deviated from the Asian Culinary Tour by visiting an off-the-beaten track Czech restaurant in Concord. We've heard for years about this Bohemian gem tucked in a mini mall in the East Bay, so we decided it was high time to sample more Eastern European fare, since we just can't get enough of this cuisine. DJ's Bistro is oddly placed in an unsuspecting mini-mall deep in the heart of Contra Costa County. This can be an arduous trek for anyone who's traveling from the other side of the tunnel or the city, but the sleepy inland suburbs allow for easy parking. Visitors do need to keep a careful eye out though because the restaurant is hidden and doesn't have the best signage.


DJ's Bistro has successfully created an European air of sophistication and simplicity. Fresh flowers dressed the tables along with crisp white linen table cloths. The restaurant is tiny and elegant. Posters of beautiful Czech regions grace the walls along with a few reprints from the fantastic Mucha. A huge screen TV looms over the pint-sized bar allowing dining guests and Czech regulars to stay in tune with the latest football news. Displayed behind the bar is an impressive collection of steins and beer mugs, and we each licked our lips at the selection of beers on tap. At the time of our visit, the bar was crowded with a jovial group of what appeared to be ex-pats who were enjoying the cozy confines of a home away from home.

As soon as we stepped in we were greeted with prompt and friendly service. A beautiful waitress took our drink orders and explained the specials of the day. The menu was impressive--however, despite what web reviews may say, DJ's does not cater to vegetarians, unless you count house salads--which we don't. As expected, the menu offered an assortment of saucy and meaty dishes. The liquor selection seemed to be promising, and we weren't sure if it was a typo or just Czech/Slovak humor but the price for a domestic beer read $8.50. This won our approval immediately!

Our meal began with green salads drenched in a tart and creamy dill dressing, accompanied by an assortment of sauerkraut, pickles and a slice of cantaloupe. We had the pleasure of enjoying two different kinds of sauerkraut. The red cabbage variety didn't quite compare to the regular sauerkraut. This appetizer served the excellent task of cleansing our palate for the ample course to come. Our party ordered the special of the day goulash, which was a hearty helping of savory meat and spices. The Slovak brochette, a heavy and tasty dish of marinated chicken in a mushroom sauce, satisfied the discerning palate. One disappointment that surprised our party was the Bohemian sauer braten, which was expected to come with a Czech bread dumpling. The tough meat in this dish also added to the dashed hopes.

A dining party, of course, cannot truly enjoy Czech/Slovak cookery without testing the jaeger schnitzel. This breaded pork cutlet was tender, perfectly crunchy and steeped in a rich, flavorful mushroom sauce. The most gratifying surprise of the evening was the spaetzle that accompanied each dish. The Euro fave came with a chomp. Instead of being boiled and served swimming in cheesy sauce, as some members have had their spaetzle, DJ's seems to fry their's with bits of wonderfully salty and crunchy bacon.

This Bohemian gem turned out to be a great authentic European bistro. And, with football season just around the corner, DJ's offers an ideal locale for catching upcoming games where fans can partake of fine foreign beers and delectable Czech/Slovak fare with a real feel for Euro tradition.


DJ's Bistro
1825 C Sutter Street,
Concord, CA 94520
Phone: (925) 825 3277
http://djsbistro.net/index.html

Sunday, June 24, 2007

BURMA SUPERSTAR, Richmond District, SF

The Champagne Supernova Supper Club ventured into the Richmond District of San Francisco on a Friday evening to check out the popular Burma Superstar. Like sardines, 6 of us piled into a 4-door and made the trek across the Bay Bridge. We were pleased as punch to zip through the carpool lane without having to pay a toll. The drive through the city was just as speedy, but once we got to our destination finding parking wasn’t so smooth. With considerable effort, a space was secured a good 4-5 blocks away.

Burma Superstar, like all renowned restaurants in the city, is anti-reservations—no matter how big of a party you’re dining with—so we were mentally prepared for a long wait. And wait we did. The stars seemed to be aligned for us though, since Burma Superstar has a clever way to keep hungry and impatient diners from twiddling their thumbs. We were looking at a wait of a page and a half, which was approximately an hour to an hour and a half. However, we were allowed to put down a name and cell phone digits. This freed us up to enjoy some pre-potations nearby at The Plough & the Stars. This Irish pub seemed to be the perfect niche to down some tasty Irish and English Beers, catch a football game and listen to live blue grass. Word to the wise though, the musicians weren’t too savvy with their equipment, much to the dismay of sensitive ears. The best sound in the pub that night was Burma Superstar calling us for our table.

Burma Superstar was a tiny hole in the wall. Kitschy Southeast Asian knick-knacks adorned the wall. The lighting was a bit harsh which seemed to compound their cramped and loud atmosphere. This isn’t a good place for a 1st date but is recommended for divorced couples, merely because intimate and romantic conversation would be impossible over the din. The menu selection was impressively extensive. There were tasty choices for carnivores, herbivores and pesco-pollo-vegetarians. The service was attentive, friendly and funny. We were concerned about the spice factor, and our waiter joked that although our food would have a kick, it wouldn’t “kill us.” Much like our trip across the bridge, after ordering, our dishes were delivered with speed. The presentation was colorful and saucy, as we’d expect from SEA cuisine. A run-down of our selections is as follows:

Rainbow salad- our appetizer had 22 ingredients but all we tasted was spice.
Sesame chicken- tangy and sweet, perfect crunch factor.
Curry eggplant- little eggplants, mild and tasty.
Coconut Chicken Flour Noodle Curry- the nutty flavor couldn’t save it from being boring.
Burmese-style curry & shrimp- fresh flavor, shrimpalicious.
Tofu vegetable- mild flavor, tofu was good and hearty.
Coconut rice- wonderfully meaty, the perfect pitch of sweet and sticky.

The libations were the standard fare with an SEA twist. We ordered the white wine sangria that tasted like sunscreen. The lychee mint julep was a pleasant mouthful of lychee. Like boba drinks though, be careful sucking through a straw or unexpected gelatinous fruit will be coming through the pipe. With stomachs bulging we had to decline a peek at the dessert menu.

Overall, Burmese Superstar is a bubbly and vivacious feast for all the senses. Although the ambiance is none too impressive, the dishes are definitely worth the wait and that’s saying a lot considering the price of admission on a weekend night will be a test of patience and hunger.

Burma Superstar Neighborhood: Inner Richmond
309 Clement Street (between 4th Ave & 5th Ave)
San Francisco, CA 94118
(415) 387-2147
www.burmasuperstar.com/
OLD KRAKOW, West Portal, SF

From Switzerland we jetted off towards Eastern Europe by dining at West Portal's Old Krakow. Our timing couldn't have been more perfect. Reservations were made a week ahead of time and when the date came; we slogged into the city on a rainy and blustery evening, deep in the heart of winter. The downpour was tremendous and what better way to spend such a soppy and sloppy evening than supping on the meaty and tasty fare of Polish cuisine?

Now, there are members of the CSNSC who have a particular penchant for Polish cookery and Old Krakow reaffirmed a special affinity for this country's food. Old Krakow is an elegant, family-oriented venue. The wait-staff were genuinely kind and gracious. Although the restaurant seemed relatively small, there is an understated sophistication to the atmosphere. They have an excellent selection of Polish beers to whet the appetite, and we smacked our lips between sips, eager for the steady course of food to come.


We started with the all time favorite comfort food, the assorted perogies, which included cabbage & mushrooms, seasoned meats, and white cheese & potatoes. As soon as they were on the table, these perogies performed an outstanding disappearing act. They were gone in a blink of an eye. We moved on to the grilled halibut with steamed vegetables and seasoned rice. Much like the perogies, this dish could not escape our enthusiasm. Eating family-style, we feasted on the stuffed cabbage rolls with mushroom sauce. This was not as masterful as Suppenkuche's but presented a crowd of flavors that pleased the palate all the same. The breaded pork cutlets didn't seem to be as memorable either compared to Suppenkuche. What did stand up for rave reviews was the homemade polish sausage dinner. Piled gorgeous onto a plate, the object d' art wiener was surrounded by sautéed sauerkraut, mashed potatoes and steamed vegetables. This dish had the taste buds roaring for more, a perfect mélange of savory meat, creamy potatoes and the sweet and sour combo of crunchy pickled cabbage.

After finishing the last bites of this hardy meal, and loosening the belts and buttons to our pants, we looked up to see quite a line of people patiently waiting at the door and underneath the restaurant's awning outside, which almost shielded the assembly from the wind and rain. This should speak volumes about the attraction of their cuisine. If Old Krakow truly is "the Bay Area's only Polish restaurant" then subsequent visits may have to be on the agenda. This place packs a tasty Polish punch.


Old Krakow Polish Restaurant & Art Cafe

385 West Portal Ave

San Francisco, CA 94127
415-564-4848
www.oldkrakow.us

MATTERHORN RESTAURANT, Cow Hollow/Pacific Heights, SF

We've had a rocky start as a supper club. Although we've popped into a handful of restaurants throughout the Bay Area, our organization has been lacking. Readers beware; this review is constructed through faulty memory. Only recently, have we gotten our heads together to record our culinary exploits.


Last fall, we had the pleasure of visiting Matterhorn Restaurant, which kicked off our European Supping Tour. Parking was thankfully easy in this particular neighborhood and unlike most restaurants in SF; we were able to make reservations, which promptly got us a table. As soon as we walked through the door, we were immediately whisked away to a Swiss chalet. We could imagine snowdrifts sweeping past the windows. A giant map of der Schweiz was sprawled across the very back wall. The ambiance was cozy and dimly lit, lending to a spacious yet intimate affair. The guests were as diverse as they were loud. This is a great place for big parties and hearty eaters. The spirit of Switzerland can lead groups to rousing debates and convivial uproars, so be sure to come with an empty stomach and an appetite for lively discussions.


Before the main event, we were each served a small salad of mixed greens, and, if memory serves, these were not particularly noteworthy. We ordered the "The Spicy One" Fondue Ticinese, which had a piquant punt to the palate. Definitely one of the best. The Original Fondue Valaisanne was heavy with the robust flavors of Gruyere and Swiss. We were disappointed with the mundane cheese-fare of "The Smokey One" Fondue Allemagne, a boring blend of smoked cheeses. Favorite dipping items of choice were the potatoes. How can anyone mess up cheese & potatoes? The bite-sized bread was an excellent accompaniment as well. The mushroom dippers weren't as flavorful and, therefore, disappointing. A quick note let your dippers stew in the fondue for a few seconds so they can truly soak up the savory tastes. We shared a bottle of Swiss white wine, which the wait staff wisely and kindly suggested for us. Overall, the service was gracious and informative. They had answers to questions that were just beginning to form in our collective minds.


For those of us who were uninitiated to fondue, this was definitely the place to be de-flowered by the ultimate melted cheese experience. Although the fondue was extraordinary, unfortunately, Matterhorn Restaurant was not enough to tempt us back. Perhaps fondue just isn't our bag. All the same, this is a must-do-at-least-once.


Matterhorn Restaurant
2323 Van Ness Avenue

San Francisco, CA 94109

(415) 885-6116

http://matterhorn.ypguides.net/

Friday, February 9, 2007

Suppenküche



Dinner
Beer

Great German food. There were five of us, so we had the potato pancakes, the stuffed cabbage, the bratwurst, and the meatloaf, then the spätzle and the schnitzel, and even the two desserts of the day. Needless to say we liked it. The best entree was the meatloaf, but you have to try the spätzle if you've never had spätzle before. Also, the desserts are not boring and generic like most places'. When we went we had a great German honey cake that you wouldn't be offered anywhere else, so if you see something you like make sure to plan ahead for it.

Great German beer. Their selection of taps is outstanding. After becoming used to having to drink real Deutsch Bier exclusively from bottles it was a beautiful thing to see their huge lineup of draught beers. The Kölsch ale and the Radler were big hits at our table. But they also have some great Bocks.

Afterwards we went to "Momi Toby's Revolution Cafe & Art Bar" which for all the pretense of its name, had good coffee and two good beers on tap that they actually served in the appropriate glasses rather than sloshing into a pint glass. I'm sure the tap rotates so don't know what they have now. Seemed like a decent cafe.